Painting a Clan Smoke Jaguar Scheme

 Step 1: Prep 'n Prime

After washing the parts with warm soapy water, and cutting off with a hobby knife any flash mold lines (finishing the job with a file), I assembled the mini with super glue. Then I based it : I filled the hexbase with some yellow-grey milliput, and stuck the mini, as well as some rocks for decoration, in it. When it was dry, I took an old brush, and painted some white glue onto the base, before dipping it some rough sand to give it some texture.
 
 
Once it's dry, prime it I with some white primer spray. I'm using Citadel, which is both decent and easily available. I sprayed the mini white :
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Step 2: Base Colors

The Smoke Jaguar Zeta Galaxy paints its machines gunmetal gray with red highlights.
 
There are the paints I used for painting the mini :
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I'm using 3 brushes : size 2, size 0 and size 000. Size 2 will be sused for the heavy operations, size 0 for doing the datails, size 000 forthe tiny things such as jewelling. I'll be using 3 paints : GW Boltgun Metal and Mithril Silver, and Prince August's Vermilion Red. I'll use some black ink, and some mate medium for a correct mix.
 
The first operation was painting the Daishi with the size 2 brush, and some boltun metal paint :
 
 
Then I made a mix of water (50%), black ink (25%) and matte medium (25%) and washed the mini with it :
 

 
After this, I highlighted the mini with some base color (boltgun metal ) and some slightly watered down silver on the ridges and pannel edges with a 0 size brush :
 


Step 3: Highlights
 
The highlights of Zeta are red, and they are commonly rendered as a thin red piping along the pannel edges and ridges of the mech. I did it using my 0 size brush, but decided to fully paint the lower legs humps, as they will make a good spot for decals :
 
 


Step 4: Details
 
Details on the mech are :
  • Missiles : these were painted white with a 0 size brush,
  • Lasers : I used my 000 brush for these.
  • Canopy : it's jewelled in 4 lightening nuances of blue on a black base.
 

 
Step 5: Basing

As you can see, I had already started on basing. The first operation was painting a very watered down red ocher paint on the sand, then painting the protruding rocks a dark grey. After this, I washed the sand with Devlan Lud wash, and the rocks with Baddab Black, both from the Citadel range of washes. Next stage is drybrushing the sand with some yellow ochre paint, and drybrush again with some Bleached Bone, The rocks are drybrushed succivekly with Citadel Codex Grey, Fortress grey, and white, All that is left to do at this stage is painting the base's edges :
 
 

 
Step 6: Finishing
 


At that stage, it's time to use a first layer of sealant. I use some glossy seal, as it will protect the mini better, and support decals more smoothly. Decals were applied, and some glue was brushed on the base before I dipped the base in scatter material. It was time to spray a matte layer of seal, and brush some glossy varnish on the canopy and laser lenses.
 
 
 
 

 

Assembling WoB Spectral Omnifighters

 I recently picked up the three miniatures for the three Word of Blake Spectral Omnifighters. When I sat down to assemble the models, I realized that they have a large number of pieces and that telling the difference between the various fins and wings could be challenging, especially for someone new to assembling and painting minis. In fact, it seemed like there were way more pieces than should reasonably fit on an aerospace fighter.

Use of Pigments

To players and hobbyists, the art of painting miniatures can feel overwhelming. There are so many choices to make - choosing the mini, the scheme, paint brands, paint brushes, and techniques. It seems never-ending, like there’s another whole world that you don’t understand each time you try a new project. Even once you have started to grow in the hobby and have some basics under your belt, the more advanced techniques can feel like an insurmountable wall. My aim here is to break down one of those walls and take some of the fear out of trying something new. My subject today is applying dry pigments.

 

Assembling the Tonbo

Assembling the Tonbo

As part of the CSO Team's effort to support Iron Wind Metals website updates, I recently received a copy of the Tonbo Superheavy Transport VTOL, as described in Catalyst Game Labs' Technical Readout 3085, pages 52-53.

I opened the baggie to find...

Assembling the Tonbo

As part of the CSO Team's effort to support Iron Wind Metals website updates, I recently received a copy of the Tonbo Superheavy Transport VTOL, as described in Catalyst Game Labs' Technical Readout 3085, pages 52-53.

I opened the baggie to find...

How-To: Weathering

 Battletech Miniature Weathering
 For me weathering is something that truly makes a Mech ‘come alive’. I just love it as it can add so much detail and character to a miniature. A couple of times I have tried to paint a clean Mech with a shiny ‘out-of-the-factory’ scheme, but I can’t. I always come back and add at least a little bit of wear and tear. Hey, even with Jamie Wolf as the pilot the paint scheme will suffer scratches and wear around the feet just moving out of the factory. 

Battletech Miniature Weathering

For me weathering is something that truly makes a Mech ‘come alive’. I just love it as it can add so much detail and character to a miniature. A couple of times I have tried to paint a clean Mech with a shiny ‘out-of-the-factory’ scheme, but I can’t. I always come back and add at least a little bit of wear and tear. Hey, even with Jamie Wolf as the pilot the paint scheme will suffer scratches and wear around the feet just moving out of the factory.

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Long awaited for practically decades, the paint schemes of the Not-Named Clan’s various units will soon be revealed.

Painting a Not-Named Clan Mech

Long awaited for practically decades, the paint schemes of the Not-Named Clan’s various units will soon be revealed.

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